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Let's Talk About Topical Poly-L-Lactic Acid

Although aging is an unavoidable fact of life, it’s natural to feel a little down when thinking about it. The process causes visible changes to your skin that folks tend to dislike. The truth is that there’s no way to completely avoid deepening expression lines or smooth out every wrinkle. However, there are a good number of options to reduce them through skincare. With new advancements in the beauty industry every year, it’s become much easier to maintain youthful skin. While botox and fillers work for some, many folks prefer a less invasive option (I would know since I am one of those people ?). The good news is that there has been a rise in effective topical ingredients that can provide similar results. In today’s blog, I’d like to cover one of these ingredients, Poly-L-Lactic Acid.

What Is Poly-L-Lactic Acid?

Poly-L-Lactic Acid, also known as PLLA, is a biodegradable, biocompatible polymer derived from lactic acid. PLLA can have a variety of molecular weights, similar to Hyaluronic Acid. Due to its biocompatibility, this compound can completely dissolve in the human body, making it highly versatile in modern medicine. In so many words, your body’s immune system will not attack it. As a result, you can find this substance in dissolvable sutures, pins, plates, screws, and other surgical applications. While it has over 30 years of history in clinical usage, PLLA has only found it’s place in aesthetics within the last ten to twenty years.


PLLA was first approved for soft tissue augmentation in 1999 to help correct cosmetic “blemishes/imperfections” like wrinkles and scars. It wasn’t until 2004 that the FDA cleared it for use in the US. It has since been used in procedures all around the country under the brand name Sculptra. Similar to other dermal fillers, Sculptra injections fill in hollow, sunken areas of the face to achieve a more youthful appearance. In the right conditions, these PLLA injections even boost your skin’s ability to produce collagen .


While fillers provide impressive results, they're not for everyone. If you’re looking for a topical solution that provides similar benefits, you’re in luck! As it turns out, PLLA can plump and smooth the look of skin without the need for any injections. While there are scant clinical studies on the topical usage of Poly-L-Lactic Acid, it’s general safety and biocompatibility still stand. Anecdotally, I have seen great results, both personally and with clients, from products containing PLLA.

Poly-L-Lactic Acid vs. Lactic Acid

It's got "Lactic Acid" in the name, so it's similar to Lactic Acid, right? As with many chemical compounds, the whole behaves different than it's parts. As I mentioned PLLA is a polymer, essentially a repeating chain of molecules. Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and functions as a chemical exfoliant in skincare. They are both very useful for promoting healthy aging of skin, but serve distinct purposes.

The Benefits of PLLA

Besides the obvious confidence boost, consistent use of PLLA comes with a number of lasting benefits. In the short term, this ingredient smooths and plumps the skin, giving it a more vibrant and youthful appearance. With continued use, the increase in collagen production will slow cellular damage altogether and lead to improved skin elasticity and less defined wrinkles.

Products We Love With PLLA

Hop+ House Of PLLA is an industry-leading K-beauty brand that is among the top brands at AOS, and for good reason. Here are some of the standout formulas containing PLLA.


  • HOP+ Caviplla Premier Caviar & O2 Multi Serum: This serum utilizes a unique oxygen delivery system to drive an impressive amount of essential antioxidants, fatty acids, amino acids, and of course, PLLA into the skin. This formula wastes no time, so you'll see quick results. This includes instantly minimizing pores, smoothing rough texture, and filling in fine lines and wrinkles for plump, vibrant skin.
  • HOP+ Pilleo H2 Stem-Cell Mist: Facial mists are often fun, but they’re rarely this powerful! Featuring potent PLLA and a cocktail of potent extracts, this mist is like a facelift in a bottle.
  • HOP+ PLLA H2 Promoter Repair Cell Moisturizer: Made with PLLA, Growth Factors, Snail Mucus Filtrate, and Niacinamide, this deeply hydrating formula feeds the skin and improves rough texture. It also drastically reduces the appearance of fine lines. As a side note, the unique, stringy texture makes it so fun to use.

The Bottom Line on Poly-L-Lactic Acid

So much of the discussion around Poly-L-Lactic Acid is focused on fillers. While I don’t personally have a problem with facial injections, they’re just not for me; I know plenty of other folks who feel similarly. If you’re looking for a safe yet cutting-edge skincare option that will deliver, I recommend giving these formulas a try!