A Guide to Using Retinol and Other Retinoids

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, an essential nutrient that plays a crucial role in cell growth and skin health. Retinoids work by penetrating deep into the skin and increasing cell turnover, encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells and revealing fresh, new skin underneath. This process helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone and texture, and reduce acne by unclogging pores.

Retinoids come in various strengths and forms, from over-the-counter options like retinol to prescription-strength retinoic acid. While incredibly effective, retinoids require careful use to minimize irritation and achieve the best results.

Only retinoic acid immediately affects the skin. All other forms of retinoids must first be processed and converted into retinoic acid by enzymes in the skin. The different forms of retinoids are simply at different stages of this process. Retinyl esters convert to retinol, which then breaks down into retinaldehyde, which becomes retinoic acid in its final stage. Most retinoids can be purchased over the counter, except for pure retinoic acid or prescription-strength retinol creams, which must be administered by a dermatologist.

Retin-A, or tretinoin, is a prescription-strength retinoid and one of the most potent options. It is pure retinoic acid, meaning it doesn’t require any conversion in the skin, leading to faster results. However, at this strength, it can also cause irritation, dryness, and peeling, especially for those with sensitive skin or those new to retinoids. Retin-A is typically used for more advanced skin concerns like deep wrinkles, severe acne, or significant sun damage.

Retinol is the most well-known and widely used retinoid available over the counter. Retinol is converted into retinoic acid in the skin, which is the active form that delivers results. While a more gentle form than prescription Retin-A, it can still be associated with minor side effects, such as dryness or peeling, and should be introduced slowly into your routine.

Retinaldehyde, or retinal, only requires one conversion to become retinoic acid, making it more potent and faster-acting than retinol. As it doesn’t need to convert through as many stages, it produces results without as many side effects, such as dryness and peeling. Retinaldehyde is a great choice for those who want quicker results without jumping to prescription retinoids, and for those with dry or sensitive skin.

Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based skincare ingredient that produces similar results to retinoids while remaining gentle on the skin. While we haven’t found it to be a true replacement for retinol, when combined with retinaldehyde, it can produce stunning skin-smoothing results and boosts antioxidant protection as well. Bakuchiol is ideal for those with sensitive skin or those who prefer natural skincare options.

If you’re new to retinoids, it’s essential to start slowly to allow your skin to build tolerance and avoid irritation. Here’s how to begin:

1. Start with a lower concentration: Choose a formula with 0.5% or less concentration of retinol, or turn to a retinyl ester or bakuchiol if just starting out.

2. Introduce gradually: Begin by using your retinoid 2-3 times per week at first. As your skin adapts, you can increase usage to every other night or even nightly, depending on your skin’s tolerance.

3. Apply a pea-sized amount: Less is more when it comes to retinoids. Apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin in the evening, avoiding the eye area unless your product is specifically formulated for that area.

4. Always follow with moisturizer: To minimize dryness and irritation, always apply a hydrating moisturizer after your retinoid.

5. Use sunscreen daily: Retinoids can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so it’s best to use retinoids in your evening routine. It’s also crucial to apply sunscreen every morning to protect your skin.

• NeoGenesis Skin Restore Serum - this newest corrective serum from NeoGenesis utilizes Retinoate, an ester of retinoic acid, which is a more gentle and stable form of vitamin A, perfect for sensitive skin.

• Sorella Apothecary Resurfacing Elixir - this winning formulation combines retinaldehyde, bakuchiol, vitamin C, and niacinamide for maximum brightening benefits and a smooth, soft, renewed complexion.

• iS Clinical Retinol Emulsion - This innovative formula (available in both 0.3% and 1% concentrations) brightens and firms the skin while reducing inflammation and soothing the skin. It uses encapsulated retinol with DNA-repairing technology to protect the skin with maximum restorative benefits.

• Rhonda Allison Salicylic "A" Serum - This formula combines the benefits of retinol with salicylic acid to control oil production and relieve congestion in the skin to improve acne and texture. We love how this serum leaves the skin looking smooth as glass the following day.

• Skin Script Glycolic and Retinol Pads - These wonder multi-use pads help to clear the pores and reduce breakouts, while lifting dark spots and hyperpigmentation. They can be used a few times per week or daily for thicker or oil skin.

Contraindications for using retinoids include:

• Rosacea

• Inflamed Acne

• Folliculitis Barbae (shaving bumps)

• Pregnancy or Nursing