Understanding and Preventing Maturation Arrest Acne

Maturation arrest acne is a lesser-known but incredibly frustrating type of acne that forms beneath the skin and doesn’t follow the typical acne lifecycle. While it may not be immediately visible from afar, a closer look—or pulling the skin taut—reveals a pebbly, uneven texture and a dull complexion. These bumps often appear as pebbles under the skin, with small pebbles or even permanent pebbles that persist and are difficult to extract, giving the skin a distinct, textured appearance.

This type of acne is usually non-inflammatory, but in some individuals, inflammation can be present. The blockage in the pores stops bacteria from entering, which is why inflammation is often absent. The affected areas often stand out in contrast to the surrounding skin, making the difference more noticeable.

Because it’s challenging to identify and stubborn to treat, maturation arrest acne can persist for months or even years without proper care.

The good news? With the right guidance from a certified acne specialist, targeted products, and consistency, it is possible to achieve clear, smooth skin.

Let’s break down what causes this type of acne, what it looks like, and how to treat it effectively.

Acne is a common skin condition that develops when pores become clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and other debris. This buildup can lead to a variety of symptoms, from small whiteheads and blackheads to more severe, inflamed acne that may result in scarring. The process often begins when the skin produces excess oil, which mixes with dead skin cells and accumulates inside the pore, creating an ideal environment for breakouts.

In the general acne life cycle, comedones mature into blackheads as the trapped material inside the pore is exposed to air and oxidizes. However, sometimes the maturation process is stopped—this is known as maturation arrest. When this happens, the clogged material remains beneath the skin, resulting in non-inflamed acne that exists primarily underneath the surface, such as maturation arrest acne.

Several factors can contribute to the development of acne, including hormonal imbalances—especially a rise in testosterone levels—which can increase oil production. The use of pore-clogging ingredients in cosmetics and hair care products, like isopropyl myristate, can also block pores and trigger breakouts. Dehydrated skin, often caused by a lack of moisture or excessive oil production, can make it easier for dead skin cells to accumulate inside the pore. Additionally, lifestyle factors such as stress, diet, and even extreme exercise can lead to excessive inflammation and worsen acne.

By understanding the factors that contribute to acne and taking proactive steps to address them, you can effectively treat maturation arrest acne and other types of breakouts. Working with a skincare professional ensures you have the right combination of treatments and lifestyle adjustments to achieve healthy, clear skin.

Maturation arrest acne is caused by the formation of closed comedones that become trapped under the skin. Here's what happens step-by-step:

1. Oil and dead skin cells collect inside the pore.

2. The pore becomes blocked.

3. Unlike typical acne, these comedones don't surface or mature into blackheads.

4. Instead, the pore remains closed, preventing oxygen from reaching the bacteria inside.

5. This leads to hardened, pebble-like bumps under the skin that are difficult to extract and slow to heal.

We often see as many as 50-100 pebbles on one side of the face with an occasional inflammatory lesion. Some individuals may experience inflamed breakouts if the trapped debris triggers a reaction as it tries to reach the surface.

Here are some of the culprits that can cause maturation arrest acne :

• Hormonal Imbalances: A rise in Testosterone levels

• Pore-Clogging Ingredients: Many skincare and makeup products contain comedogenic ingredients, which can clog pores. Check out our Pore-Clogging Ingredient List to ensure your routine is free from acne-causing ingredients.

• Tobacco: Smoking reduces oxygen supply to the skin and contributes to blocked pores and dullness.

• Omega-3 Fatty Acid Deficiency: A low intake of essential fatty acids can compromise your skin barrier, reducing moisture and increasing bacterial growth. Essential fatty acids can help normalize the lipid profile of sebum in individuals with maturation arrest acne.

• Excessive Inflammation: High-intensity exercise, inflammatory foods, or even stress can trigger inflammation that disrupts normal skin function.

This type of acne requires patience, consistency, and a personalized approach—and we're here to help every step of the way.

To treat this form of acne effectively, we focus on increasing exfoliation and dissolving congestion under the skin while preventing future breakouts. Here's a simple, effective starting routine that increases exfoliation while reducing inflammation:

Tip: Be diligent. This type of acne takes months, not weeks, to clear. Stay consistent and you will see results!

Step 1: Cleanse

Product: Dr. esthé Enzyme Deep Clear Powder Wash.

This gentle enzyme cleanser effectively digests dead skin cells, debris, and excess oils without stripping or irritating the skin. 

Pro Tip: Mix the powder with lukewarm water and massage into damp skin for 30–60 seconds before rinsing thoroughly.

Step 2: Tone

Product: Rhonda Allison Mandelic Defense Tonic
Mandelic acid is naturally antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, making it excellent for clearing congestion while calming the skin.

Pro Tip: Apply with an AOS Guaze Toner Pad gently massaging over the entire face to work toner into the skin thoroughly.

Product: Glymed Plus Beta Gel (10% Glycolic Acid)
This corrective serum penetrates congested pores, promotes cell turnover, and refines texture with a potent dose of glycolic acid. Perfect for softening buildup associated with maturation arrest acne, and encouraging healthy skin renewal.

Note: If new to glycolic acid, start with a smaller amount or use every other morning and build up as tolerated.

Step 4: Moisturize & Protect

Products: Acne-safe hydrating moisturizer + Broad-spectrum SPF
Lock in moisture with a non-comedogenic, calming moisturizer. Follow with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher to guard against UV damage and prevent post-inflammatory pigmentation. Consistent SPF use is crucial when using exfoliants like glycolic and mandelic acids.

Step 1: Cleanse

Product: Hale & Hush Clarify Wash
A sensitive skin-friendly cleanser formulated with mandelic acid and enzymes to gently dissolve dead skin cells and reduce inflammation. Ideal for clearing pore congestion without disrupting the skin’s natural barrier.

Pro Tip: Massage into damp skin for 60 seconds to allow the active ingredients to work, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

Step 2: Tone

Product: Rhonda Allison Mandelic Defense Tonic using AOS Gauze Toner Pads

Step 3: Corrective Serum

Product: Rhonda Allison Salicylic "A" Serum
A powerful pore-penetrating serum featuring salicylic acid and vitamin A to help break down sticky sebum deep inside the pores and support skin cell turnover. Excellent for reducing the risk of new breakouts while clearing existing ones.

Note: Introduce gradually if your skin is reactive—start with every other night and increase as tolerated.

Step 4: Spot Treatment (If Needed)

Product: Glymed Plus Blemish Control No. 5 (Benzoyl Peroxide)
Apply a thin layer directly to active blemishes, particularly those that are inflamed or pustular. This formula delivers potent antibacterial action with benzoyl peroxide to reduce redness, swelling, and acne-causing bacteria.

Maturation arrest acne can feel like an uphill battle, but it doesn't have to be a lifelong skin concern. Our Art of Skin Care acne specialists are here to create a personalized treatment plan and provide ongoing skin coaching to help you succeed.

I hope we’ve answered all your questions about maturation arrest acne today! If you have any lingering questions or concerns, please feel free to reach out to our licensed estheticians via live chat. If you need assistance optimizing your current routine, click here for a free online skincare checkup with an AOS Acne Specialist.