Enzymes in Skincare

Enzyme exfoliants are skincare products that use naturally derived proteolytic enzymes, most commonly papain from papaya and bromelain from pineapple, to break down the keratin protein bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface of the skin. Unlike physical scrubs or chemical exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs, enzymes work selectively on the outermost layer only, gently digesting dead cells without disrupting the healthy skin beneath. The result is smoother texture, improved clarity, and a brighter complexion without irritation or downtime.

For many people with sensitive skin, enzyme exfoliants are a better choice than acid-based exfoliants. Acids like glycolic or lactic acid accelerate cell turnover across the whole surface, which can cause redness, stinging, and disruption to the skin barrier, especially in reactive or compromised skin. Enzymes work more selectively, targeting only dead cells and leaving the barrier intact. They also tend to have anti-inflammatory properties, particularly bromelain, which can help calm irritation rather than trigger it. That said, individual skin responses vary. Our estheticians can help you determine which type of exfoliation is right for your skin.

Yes. Enzyme exfoliants are one of the best options for summer exfoliation specifically because they do not increase photosensitivity the way acids can. AHAs in particular are known to make skin more vulnerable to UV damage, which is a meaningful concern during high-sun months. Enzymes gently resurface without that added risk, making them a smart swap for clients who want to maintain their exfoliation routine through summer without compromising their SPF protection. As always, daily SPF is still essential.

Enzyme exfoliants are generally well tolerated by acne-prone skin and can be beneficial for it. Papain in particular has been noted for its ability to help clear pores and break down excess oil on the surface, making it a useful ingredient for oily and acne-prone skin types. Because enzymes exfoliate without the abrasion of physical scrubs or the potential inflammation of strong acids, they are less likely to aggravate active breakouts. For clients working through a professional acne protocol, we recommend checking with your esthetician before introducing any new exfoliant.

Most enzyme exfoliants can be used two to three times per week, though some gentler formulations are suitable for daily use. Frequency depends on the product concentration, your skin type, and what else is in your routine. If you are also using retinol, vitamin C, or other active ingredients, your esthetician can help you build a schedule that prevents over-exfoliation and keeps your barrier healthy. A good rule of thumb: if your skin feels tight, dry, or more reactive after exfoliation, reduce frequency.

Both papain and bromelain are proteolytic enzymes that dissolve keratin to exfoliate dead skin cells, but they have slightly different properties. Papain, derived from papaya, is particularly effective at breaking down excess oil and surface congestion, making it a popular choice for oily and acne-prone skin. Bromelain, derived from pineapple, has additional anti-inflammatory properties and is often noted for its ability to soothe reactive skin while exfoliating. Many professional-strength formulas combine both for a more complete effect.

Yes, but with some planning. Enzyme exfoliants and retinol are both active ingredients that affect skin cell turnover, so using them simultaneously on the same night can cause over-exfoliation and sensitivity in some people. The most common approach is to alternate nights: enzyme exfoliant on one evening, retinol on the next. Some people with resilient skin tolerate using both regularly without issue. Your esthetician can help you layer these ingredients in a way that works for your skin and your goals.

Yes, meaningfully so. Professional-strength enzyme exfoliants, like those carried at Art of Skin Care, contain higher concentrations of active enzymes in formulations designed to maintain stability and efficacy. Enzyme activity is sensitive to pH and temperature, which means formulation quality directly affects how well a product performs on the skin. Many consumer products contain very low enzyme concentrations that may not deliver the same results. The brands our estheticians curate are selected specifically for their clinical efficacy and the results we see in our clients.

Yes, always. Although enzyme exfoliants do not increase photosensitivity the way AHAs do, any form of exfoliation reveals fresher, newer skin cells that benefit from sun protection. Daily SPF 30 or higher is a non-negotiable part of any skincare routine that includes exfoliation, regardless of the type. It is also the single most important step for preventing UV-related aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin damage year-round.

Our estheticians have curated this collection with specific skin types in mind. Here is a starting point based on your primary concern:

• Dry & sensitive skin, including around the eyes: Rhonda Allison Derma-Zyme is one of the gentlest enzyme exfoliants in our collection and is formulated to be safe even for use around the delicate eye area. An excellent first enzyme for reactive or compromised skin.

• Oily or congested skin: Dr. Esthe Deep Clear Powder Wash combines enzymatic exfoliation with a powder-to-foam format that helps dissolve surface oil and debris without stripping. A strong choice for oily and acne-prone skin types.

• Uneven pigmentation: Rhonda Allison Skin Brightening Enzyme targets dullness and discoloration at the surface, pairing enzymatic exfoliation with brightening actives for a more even, luminous tone over time.

• Dull, lackluster skin: Rhonda Allison Cherry Jubilee is a client favorite for restoring radiance. The cherry-derived enzymes give skin an immediate glow and work particularly well as a weekly treatment for tired, congested skin.

Not sure which applies to you? Start a complimentary consultation with one of our licensed estheticians and we will match you to the right product for your skin.