Understanding your skin—and the type of acne you’re experiencing—is one of the most important steps toward achieving clear, healthy skin. In Acne Lesson 1, we covered what acne is and why it forms. Now, let’s take it a step further by identifying the severity and type of acne you have, so your treatment plan can be targeted, effective, and acne-safe.
Acne is not one-size-fits-all. Knowing what you’re dealing with allows your Art of Skin Care acne specialist to build a customized plan that treats the root cause, not just the symptoms.
Discover the Severity of Your Acne
Acne vulgaris is typically classified into three levels of severity based on the number and type of active lesions present at one time:
Mild Acne
Fewer than 10 active lesions, primarily blackheads and whiteheads, with minimal inflammation.Moderate Acne
Approximately 10–30 lesions, often a mix of inflamed and non-inflamed breakouts.Severe Acne
30+ lesions at once, often including deep cysts or nodules that may be painful and persistent.
Severity helps determine the intensity of treatment needed, but the type of acne determines how we treat it.
What Type of Acne Do I Have?
Most acne is a combination of types. However, one rule always applies:
👉 Inflamed acne must be treated first before addressing non-inflamed congestion.
Non-Inflamed Acne
Non-inflamed acne includes blackheads and whiteheads (open and closed comedones). It forms when pores become clogged with excess oil and dead skin cells without bacterial infection.
This type of acne may also appear as tiny, flesh-colored bumps under the skin that don’t extract easily—a condition known as maturation arrest (covered below).
Treatment focus:
Gentle mechanical exfoliation
Targeted chemical exfoliation
Acne-safe homecare that supports healthy cell turnover without disrupting the skin barrier
Inflamed Acne
Inflamed acne includes papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. These breakouts are red, swollen, warm to the touch, and often tender or painful due to bacteria trapped inside the pore.
Treatment focus:
Professional-grade antibacterial ingredients such as mandelic acid and benzoyl peroxide
Inflammation management (including icing techniques when appropriate)
Internal support through supplements to optimize gut and hormonal health
Acne-safe hydration and daily sun protection to prevent dehydration and post-inflammatory damage
Barrier protection is essential—drying out the skin will worsen acne, not heal it.
Combination Acne
This is the most common presentation and includes both inflamed and non-inflamed lesions at the same time.
Treatment focus:
Clearing inflammation first
Gradually addressing congestion once inflammation is under control
A carefully phased, customized routine guided by an acne specialist
Consistency and professional guidance are key to long-term success.
Other Common Skin Conditions Often Confused with Acne
Acne Rosacea
Rosacea is frequently mistaken for acne but requires a completely different approach. It presents as persistent facial redness, flushing, and sensitivity, often accompanied by burning or stinging sensations.
Rosacea typically appears after age 30 and most commonly affects women. Over time, visible capillaries and acne-like bumps may develop.
➡ Rosacea should never be treated with traditional acne products.
Maturation Arrest Acne
Maturation arrest acne consists of hardened, pebble-like bumps trapped beneath the skin’s surface. These closed comedones are often invisible unless the skin is stretched and can create a rough or dull texture.
This type of acne is stubborn and requires expert guidance, patience, and precise product selection.
➡ Professional support is essential for safe and effective treatment.
Folliculitis: The Acne Imposter
Folliculitis is inflammation or infection of the hair follicle and can look very similar to acne. It often presents as small red bumps that may be itchy or sore.
It can be caused by bacteria or fungus and commonly appears on the forehead, jawline, neck, chest, back, or scalp.
➡ Because treatment differs from acne, correct diagnosis is critical.
How Long Does It Take to Get Clear Skin?
Clear skin doesn’t happen overnight—but it does happen with the right plan and support.
Many clients see improvement within a few weeks
Significant progress often occurs around 90 days
Most achieve clear, healthy skin within 6–9 months
Your results depend on consistency, patience, and working closely with your Art of Skin Care certified acne specialist.
Struggling with breakouts?
Join the FREE AOS Clear Skin Club for expert acne guidance, routine support, and ongoing help from licensed estheticians.
Continue through our Acne Lessons to learn how to maintain results and keep your skin clear long-term.
Author
Celine LeClerc
Celine LeClerc is a licensed esthetician, Certified Acne Specialist, and the lead esthetician at Art of Skin Care, where she also serves as the Director of Education and Research & Development. With 14 years of experience in the skincare industry, Celine is renowned for her deep expertise and exceptional ability to match clients with the most effective, results-driven skincare solutions.
Guided by a passion for innovation, Celine scours the globe in search of cutting-edge, science-backed products that deliver visible transformations while supporting skin health at every stage of life. Her expertise spans everything from clearing stubborn acne to creating advanced, holistic routines for healthy aging.
At Art of Skin Care, Celine leads with a commitment to education, training both clients and estheticians on the latest advancements in skincare. Her mission is to empower individuals with the knowledge, tools, and routines they need to achieve radiant, resilient skin without compromise.
