Why Ingredient Lists Aren’t the Whole Story
If you’ve ever tried to decode a product label, you know how overwhelming ingredient lists can be. While they can give you clues, the truth is that it’s the formulation that really matters.
At Art of Skin Care, we have the unique advantage of working directly with manufacturers and their labs. This means we don’t just read ingredient labels—we know how each ingredient is processed, refined, and incorporated into a formula. That insider knowledge allows us to confidently and authoritatively mark certain products with our Acne-Safe Badge—because we know they truly are safe for acne-prone skin.
We also know that you may not buy every product in your arsenal from AOS. Shopping at places like Target, Sephora, or Ulta doesn’t come with the same access to chemists and lab notes, and that’s where things get tricky. In those situations, a cheat sheet of acne-causing ingredients becomes an invaluable tool to help you steer clear of products that could sabotage your clear skin journey.
When to Use the Cheat Sheet
Think of this like an elimination diet: if you’re struggling with breakouts, avoid the known offenders first. Once your skin is calm and clear, you can experiment with slowly reintroducing ingredients—always paying attention to how your skin responds.
Top Acne-Causing Ingredients to Always Avoid
These ingredients are consistently problematic for acne-prone skin, regardless of formulation:
- Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol
- Cetyl Acetate
- Cocoa Butter
- Coconut Butter
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate
- Glyceryl-3-Diistoreate
- Glyceryl Stearate SE
- Isocetyl Alcohol
- Isocetyl Stearate
- Isodecyl Oleate
- Isopropyl Isostearate
- Isopropyl Linolate
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Isopropyl Palmitate
- Isostearyl Isostearate
- Isostearyl Neopentanoate
- Myristyl Myristate
- Myristyl Lactate
- Laureth-4
- Lauric Acid
- Octyl Stearate
- Oleyl Alcohol
- Oleth-3
- Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Stearyl Heptanoate
- Steareth-10
- Wheat Germ Oil
- Xylene
When Formulation Makes the Difference
Some ingredients show very different results depending on how they’re refined or combined. A great example is olive oil: unrefined, it carries a comedogenic rating of 4, but when refined, that drops to 0.
This is why simply Googling “comedogenic ingredient lists” can be misleading. What really matters is the way the ingredient is processed and used. Since you don’t have access to lab notes at Sephora, treat these “gray zone” ingredients cautiously until you know how your skin reacts:
- Acetylated Lanolin
- Algae Extract
- Algin
- Avocado Oil/Butter
- Argan Oil
- Almond/Sweet Almond oil
- Butyl Stearate
- Carrageenan
- Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20 (only when combined)
- Chondrus Crispus (aka Irish Moss or Carageenan Moss)
- Chlorella
- Coal Tar
- Coconut Alkanes
- Coconut Oil
- Colloidal Sulfur
- Corn Oil
- Cotton Awws Oil
- Cotton Seed Oil
- D & C Red # 17
- D & C Red # 21
- D & C Red # 3
- D & C Red # 30
- D & C Red # 36
- Decyl Oleate
- Dioctyl Succinate
- Disodium Monooleamido PEG 2- Sulfosuccinate
- Ethoxylated Lanolin
- Hexadecyl Alcohol
- Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
- Kelp
- Laminaria Digitata Extract
- Laminaria Saccharina Extract (Laminaria Saccharine)
- Laureth-23
- Lauroyl Lysine
- Mink Oil
- Myristic Acid
- Myristyl Lactate
- Octyl Palmitate
- PEG 16 Lanolin
- PEG 200 Dilaurate
- PEG 8 Stearate
- PG Monostearate
- PPG 2 Myristyl Propionate
- Plankton
- Potassium Chloride
- Propylene Glycol Monostearate
- Red Algae
- Seaweed
- Sesame Oil
- Shark Liver Oil
- Shea Butter
- Solulan 16
- Sorbitan Oleate
- Soybean Oil
- Spirulina
- Stearic Acid Tea
- Sulfated Castor Oil
- Sulfated Jojoba Oil
- Wheat Germ Glyceride
Ingredient Considerations
Natural oils are not automatically safe. While popular in “clean beauty,” many oils inflame acne-prone follicles, especially if not properly refined.
“Oil-free” doesn’t mean acne-safe. Many oil-free formulas still contain comedogenic fillers.
Prescription creams (even Retin A in cream base) may contain acne-triggering ingredients. Always check.
Dimethicone: despite the myths, this smoothing and protective ingredient is non-comedogenic and safe for acne-prone skin.
A note about dimethicone: There has been a lot of misinformation swirling around about an ingredient called dimethicone. People are concerned that this smoothing, protective agent in many skincare products will clog pores. The answer to that is no, dimethicone is not an acne-causing ingredient. For more information about the benefits of dimethicone, see our blog post: What Is The Truth About Dimethicone?
Acne-Safe Makeup
Makeup is another hidden source of breakouts. Loose powder mineral foundations tend to be the safest, but always cross-check formulas. For cream formulas, we recommend Illuminare Mineral Makeup, available in several finishes:
Mattifying Mineral Foundation – for a soft matte look
Concealing Mineral Foundation – for more coverage
Moisturizing Mineral Foundation – for a dewy glow
Tip: A little goes a long way. Dab small amounts with a brush or blend with acne-safe sunscreen for flawless results.
Final Takeaway
Ingredient lists are only part of the picture—but when you’re shopping outside of AOS, they’re the only tool you have. Use our cheat sheet wisely, practice an elimination approach if your skin is acting up, and remember: at Art of Skin Care, we’ve done the lab work for you. Look for our Acne-Safe Badge to shop with confidence.
Author
Celine LeClerc
Celine LeClerc is a licensed esthetician, Certified Acne Specialist, and the lead esthetician at Art of Skincare, where she also serves as the Director of Education and Research & Development. With 14 years of experience in the skincare industry, Celine is renowned for her deep expertise and exceptional ability to match clients with the most effective, results-driven skincare solutions.
Guided by a passion for innovation, Celine scours the globe in search of cutting-edge, science-backed products that deliver visible transformations while supporting skin health at every stage of life. Her expertise spans everything from clearing stubborn acne to creating advanced, holistic routines for healthy aging.
At Art of Skincare, Celine leads with a commitment to education, training both clients and estheticians on the latest advancements in skincare. Her mission is to empower individuals with the knowledge, tools, and routines they need to achieve radiant, resilient skin without compromise.
